How to Conquer Kauai’s Killer Kalalau Trail in 2 Days
Ever since I was in the film called A Perfect Getaway starring Timothy Olyphant and Milla Jovovich, (a murder mystery which was based on the island of Kauai on the Kalalau Trail) I’ve always wanted to conquer this in real life, but it always seemed too daunting. The film was actually shot on location in Puerto Rico, and although my scene in the movie was left on the cutting room floor, I made it to the trail in real life years later!
All the blogs and research I did prior to going years later dissuaded me, talking about how dangerous the Kalalau Trail can be, especially when you consider how remote it is, (no cell service either) but in actuality its a pretty well traveled path. Honestly, it also was hard to get someone to want to come hike it with me— I thought I was going to do it by myself until my friend decided to join me a few days prior to leaving.
It was one of the most amazing hikes I’ve ever done!
On the way up the Kalalau Trail
About the Kalalau Trail
If you are looking for isolation, lush rain forests, and spectacular views away from the typical tourist traps, the NaPali coast is the place to get lost and soak it all in. The Kalalau Trail recently re-opened after 14 months due to torrential rains and flooding.
Residents had gotten used to a nearly tourism-free existence since an April storm in 2018 produced massive flooding that shuttered popular attractions, including the Napali Coast State Wilderness Park, Ha‘ena State Park, Kee Beach, Kalalau Trail, Haena Beach Park and Limahuli Garden & Preserve.
But even with all the hoops you have to jump through, it’s one of the most beautiful hikes I have ever done and well worth the trek. It has some of the most amazing coastline I have ever seen and pictures really just don’t do it justice. I have flown over, boated around, and now hiked the Na Pali coast and this was one of the best and most memorable ways to see that side of the island.
Its not for the faint-hearted, but its definitely a do-able hike for anyone who is relatively fit. (For reference, I work out 3-5 times a week and am pretty active). I would consider it an advanced hike because of the terrain. There were a lot of quick ups and downs in elevation (quick temperature changes), but no steady incline or as many switchbacks as some hikes, like Half Dome.
The sketchy parts were very narrow. There is one area called Crawler’s Ledge where you are literally hugging the side of the cliff. Definitely not ideal for those who may be afraid of heights, but if you follow the well-marked trail with stone markers at each mile, you will be fine.
The Crawler’s Ledge along the Kalalau Trail
If you are looking to go, I definitely recommend you make reservations with plenty of advance planning, 8-12 months prior to leaving, as it seems there are much stricter guidelines on this trail.
Hiking the Kalalau Trail
I ended up doing the trail in two days, which is quite quick, too quick for many people, but we didn’t want to carry too much on our backs. Let’s face it, I am a glamper. I don’t like sleeping in the dirt, but I like camping and being in the outdoors! I enjoy the creature comforts of home and not so much the creepy crawlers and bugs that usually love to bite me. There were surprisingly not as many mosquitoes as I would have thought, I think because we went on a shoulder season in March when the temperatures were more moderate.
My friend and I didn’t pack any cooking gear or even a tent. We simply took a rain fly to sleep under, (which was poor planning on our part) but if I was do it again, I still probably wouldn’t bring a tent. If you can time your trip right, the weather which dips down to low 60s, is perfect for sleeping outdoors. Be prepared though for sudden changes in weather. We were very lucky, but the day after we got back, a storm rolled in and the path got super slippery and dangerous. When that happens, its another reason why its considered one of the most dangerous hikes in the world.
We ran into quite a few people, as the trail is pretty busy, especially the first 2 miles. Around mile 6 the day-use hikers stop and either turn around or head inland to the half way point campsite or waterfall. Mile 6 through the end is much more isolated, but the scenery is so stunning. I think the most dangerous thing is keeping your eyes on the path! It took about 12 hours each way to complete the 22 mile round trip hike. It’s the same way back so don’t feel like you have to take all your photos or stop for everything on your way the first day.
We arrived at the beach just in time for sunset, which was an amazing award. To our surprise, there were about 20 or so people and camps already set up with tents - most people were much more prepared than us. You can’t really go for a swim in the ocean at this location. The current is really strong and its not advised, so we just soaked in the rewards of golden hour on the relatively remote beach and later the amazing star show above in the night sky.
The Beach at Sunset while we hiked the Kalalau Trail
There is a little waterfall to clean up and get drinking water from at the far right end of the beach. The area is so remote and pristine you could drink the water straight without filtering it.
TRAVEL TIP:
I think I'm in pretty good shape, but the next morning I woke up and when I tried to stand, I felt like a newborn giraffe with legs that weren’t working! It took 30 mins or so for me to feel ok! So make sure you STRETCH before you go to bed. The lactic acid build up eventually subsided while hiking another 11 miles back, but by the end of the second day, my legs were shot and could barely put one foot in front of the other. It took all the mental fortitude I could muster up to get through the last two miles.
I still wouldn’t trade that experience for the world, and would do it again. Who’s up for an adventure?
Here’s a list of the items we brought in our light hiking packs:
2 bags of Trader Joe's Crispy Crunchy Mixed Fruit - Coconut, Pineapple, Mango & Jackfruit
A roll of duct tape - this saved my shoe later on when my hiking boot fell apart!
A few ziploc bags to pack out trash
NOT PICTURED: We got a giant sub sandwich from Foodland and packed it to ration for two days (Not the best idea but it works for a quick trip!)
List of Clothing to Pack:
For clothing, you definitely want to bring the minimum. I ended up wearing everything I brought to sleep for the one night we were there because the temperature does drop (I think it was about 60) . Plus, it gets breezy if you are sleeping outside. Even sleeping under a rain fly, it can get dewy.
Here’s what I packed:
2 work out tank tops
2 running shorts (quick dry material)
2 long sleeve running tops
1 uniqlo puffy jacket (they are light and pack down)
1 pair of yoga pants
1 pair of rubber flip-flops
Wool hiking socks (2 pairs)
A hat and visor
Sunglasses
A small bag of toiletries
Tips for Hiking the Kalaulau Trail:
Make sure you bring a water purifier. Fill up at Mile Marker 2. Its a while away to the next water stop, we learned that the hard way. Keep drinking water and stay hydrated. You are in the tropics and its humid so the last thing you want to do is feel dehydrated.
Best times to go are shoulder or drier seasons mid-April to mid-June and September and October. We went in March and got lucky with the weather!
Take a walking stick right behind the sign at the beginning of the trail head, or invest in walking poles, you won’t regret it.
Pack as lightly as possible.
Give yourself time to plan ahead… especially with all the new regulations.
Stop and enjoy the breathtaking beauty, even if you don’t have much time, its worth every second of pause.